Louis Vuitton
USINFO | 2013-08-09 14:38

 
The scene Marc Jacobs set at his evocative show forLouis Vuitton this morning was that of a grand hotel. Out of fifty numbered rooms lining the runway, models emerged in varying states of dress and undress. One wore a flower-embroidered double-breasted jacket and matching briefs with her platform sandals and fifties wig, an echo of a silhouette Jacobs showed in New York nearly three weeks ago.

The pajamas of that collection reemerged here as well. More often, though, he conveyed a sense of intimacies exposed—the walk of shame, some called it, which fits with what he was saying backstage about our exhibitionistic and voyeuristic tendencies. There were lace-edged negligees under sweeping astrakhan coats, printed silk brassiere-and-slip sets, and peignoirs lined with plush fur.

Daywear, too, evoked the boudoir: Skirtsuits were stitched with degradé embroideries, deep feather hems decorated oversize men's coats.  The clothes on the runway were lovely, with their muted, sleepy colors and the deluxe details that Vuitton does so well. Luxury was the word for the bags, too, which were Vuitton classics like the Speedy, the Lockit, and the Pochette Accessoires in materials that included marabou feathers and waxed crocodile. If the collection felt less provocative than usual, in spite of the suggestion of illicit goings-on behind closed hotel-room doors, that's emblematic of a season in which designers have turned en masse to the look of midcentury clothes. That could have been prompted by last season's Miu Miu collection, but Jacobs has never hidden his affection for the work of Miuccia Prada. If the Vuitton designer is comfortably part of the pack this season, the clothes were none the worse for that.
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