The severe, linear, monochromatic collection that Bill Gaytten showed for John Galliano today felt like a very deliberate repudiation of the label's legacy of languid glamour and heady romance. "I'm not a soft, romantic person," Gaytten said dismissively.

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by 胡文 | 2013-08-07

It's hard to go terribly wrong when Françoise Hardy is your reference. But Lydia Maurer went a lot further than channeling the French star's soigné style. She delivered a sharp, tightly edited collection that connected the early years of Paco Raban

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

There was more Rykiel from the seventies and eighties (the black and golden decades) than there has been in recent seasons—even if there remains less Rykiel on the corporate side.

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

California grunge was the inspiration for Hedi Slimane's second women's collection for Saint Laurent. Though the huge banners outside the Grand Palais still proclaimed "YSL" in the old typeface, that is more likely to be one last wrinkle of the past on th

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

Sacai's Chitose Abe has been at her hybridized mash-ups for years, but they just don't get boring. This was another outstanding outing for the Japanese designer, one that once more demonstrated how sensitive she is to the conceptual-commercial mix.

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

"If you're going to show in Paris, be Parisian." So stated Roland Mouret after his show today, and the assertion neatly summed up what was so intimidating about his collection. It wasn't that the show referenced Catherine Deneuve in the vampire flick The

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