The severe, linear, monochromatic collection that Bill Gaytten showed for John Galliano today felt like a very deliberate repudiation of the label's legacy of languid glamour and heady romance. "I'm not a soft, romantic person," Gaytten said dismissively.

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by 胡文 | 2013-08-07

It's hard to go terribly wrong when Françoise Hardy is your reference. But Lydia Maurer went a lot further than channeling the French star's soigné style. She delivered a sharp, tightly edited collection that connected the early years of Paco Raban

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

The unprepossessing bunker that is the show venue at Bercy was the site of the Yohji Yamamoto runway presentation this evening. Yet this back-to-basics place, with its simple lines of wooden chairs arranged in a square, turned out to be the launch pad for

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

This was a strong collection for Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. Though short on fireworks, the clothes on the runway today were rather eloquent, with a passage of looks with trompe l'oeil hand embroidery standing out as particularly expressive.

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

There was something interesting about the shoulders at Véronique Leroy's show today. Like a lot of designers in Paris this season, Leroy sharpened her shoulders and built them out; what was particularly interesting about her interpretation of the trend wa

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by 胡文 | 2013-05-31

The push/pull of masculine and feminine is shaping up to be one of this season's big stories.

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