There was more Rykiel from the seventies and eighties (the black and golden decades) than there has been in recent seasons—even if there remains less Rykiel on the corporate side. In February last year, luxury group Fung Brands acquired an 80 percent stake in the company and named Geraldo da Conceicao as artistic director mere weeks before the Spring 2013 presentation. He comes with an impressive CV: his Paris years spent at Yves Saint Laurent under Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford, and Stefano Pilati; five years in Milan as design director at Miu Miu; and then a return to Paris where he designed for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. You can't spend that much time working with The Greats and not pick up a thing or two. Sometimes, those things were quite obvious: A slouchy cardigan fronted in beaver whispered Miuccia. All that sheer black boudoir business was decidedly Saint Laurent. Small shocks of pink inside the vents of jackets and skirts screamed of Schiap.